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    關于唐家嶺

    作者: 阮一峰

    日期:2009年11月8日

    前天的《華爾街日報》推薦了一本新書《蟻族:大學畢業生聚居村實錄》。

    中國的大學畢業生跟螞蟻有何共同之處?新書《蟻族》描繪了北漂大學畢業生的生活,他們就像螞蟻,頭腦聰明,但作為個體微不足道,只有在群落中“聚族而居”才能獲得力量。

    這本書采訪了600個北京的低收入大學畢業生,根據他們的經歷寫成。其中大多數人的月收入不足2000元,他們在北京郊區租下簡陋的房屋,像螞蟻一樣擠在一起。

    網上有此書的前三章,讀完后第一個感覺就是很真實,沒有任何夸大,很多大學畢業生的生存現狀確實如此;其次,就是感覺很震撼,你知道有人在咬牙忍受,但是親眼看到他們怎樣忍受,還是令人十分動容。我很推薦此書,國內難得有這樣直接反映社會現實的調查著作。

    書中主要寫了一個叫做“唐家嶺”的地方。

    “(它)是個小村莊,距天安門廣場20公里,本地村民大約3000人,但外來人口已超過50000人,其中多數是來自全國各地的畢業生。這些學生住的都是當地農民修建的五六層高的樓房,每層12間房,每個房間在10平米左右,兩三個人擠一間。最多有七八十人共用一個廁所和廚房。整個社區由許多小街小巷組成,小理發店、診所、雜貨店和網吧遍布其間。”

    我一時好奇,就在地圖上搜索它的位置。書里說:“這是北京市海淀區最靠邊的一個村子,隸屬西北旺鎮,是典型的城鄉結合部。再往西一點,就是昌平區的地界。”從地圖上看,唐家嶺離北京市中心并不遠。根據地圖,它距離天安門廣場25.9公里,距離清華大學8.7公里。即使是公共汽車,在不堵車的情況下,從市內到唐家嶺也就是一個小時的車程。

    唐家嶺是一個什么樣的地方?

    書中有一個片段,很形象地寫出了一個大學生對唐家嶺的第一印象。

    洪建修一大早被領上城鐵,往北坐了兩站,在西二旗下車換乘公交,到目的地時,已是中午。

    到站下車,他清醒了:“那哪里是北京啊,真是臟亂差!”

    他看到狹小的街道上,車輛來回穿梭,裹起一團團的塵土,籠罩著一旁各種各樣的小店,有的店招牌已經掛了很久,來一陣風便搖搖欲墜。租房的小廣告貼滿了電線桿和目力所及的墻壁;抬起頭,還是大大的廣告牌,寫著“招租”二字。沒走幾步路,不知從哪兒飄來的一個白色塑料袋纏在了腳底。

    跟著別人在蜿蜒的小巷子里繞了五分鐘,來到他未來的屋子里,洪建修一下就愣住了--房里只有一張硬板床。空蕩蕩的屋子里,什么別的擺設都沒有。這樣的一間房,二百八十塊一個月,他和一個同來北京的朋友合住。

    屋里沒有衛生間,他每天都不得不去一個公共廁所--“熏死人不償命”,洪建修說,在里面待五分鐘再出來呼吸新鮮空氣,就知道什么叫做幸福。“沒想到北京,也有這么垃圾的地方。”

    北京的夏天熱,他怕熱。三十多度的氣溫,他花四十塊買了個電風扇,“呼呼呼”吹出的都是熱風。怕走電字,他給電扇定了時,每晚只開一小時。

    可洗澡是個難題。樓里沒法洗,外面的浴室又遠又貴--要四塊錢一次。他平時就隨便拿涼水沖沖,直到房東在衛生間弄了個公共浴室,才能”湊合著洗洗“。洪建修每天都要洗澡,怕出汗,洗完了就躺在床上不動,可還是熱得睡不著覺。

    最可氣的是他的同屋,每天倒頭就睡,還愛打呼嚕。煩啊,洪建修“直想踹他”。

    可哪能真踹,白天還要和他一起出去找工作。

    大學生們為什么要住在唐家嶺?

    首要的原因當然是房租便宜。根據前面的引文,每月只要280元,就可以租下一個床位,前提是你能忍受與他人合住一屋,而且沒有任何家具,也沒有衛生間,上廁所要去一二百米以外的公共廁所。不過,就算是配備廚衛的單間,每月的租金也只有六七百元。

    除了房租的原因以外,書里還提到了一些其他原因。

    唐家嶺的生活環境算不上好。然而其優勢也是明顯的。首先,這里生活成本遠較市內低。而遍布于這條街道的二元店、三元店里,很多生活日用品都可買到。就是吃食,譬如牛肉面,別的地方賣五元,這里賣三元。

    更重要的是,這里離中關村、上地軟件園都在一個小時的車程范圍內。從2006年,北京公交降價以后,拿著公交卡,只要花上四毛錢,他們就能夠坐上一兩個小時的車,到需要去的地方。

    據說在唐家嶺,外來人口有幾萬人。那么不難想像,每天早上上班的時候,公共汽車站是多么擁擠和混亂。

    一輛輛公交車緩慢地朝車站駛來,那些等車的人有如潮水一般沿著公車行駛的方向擠去。人們用力敲打著車門,又喊又叫地看著司機,希望汽車停在自己身邊。

    車子還未停穩,無數的年輕人便將車門團團圍住;車門一開,人們立刻連沖帶撞向車里涌去。靠近車門的人使出渾身力氣只想再往前挪動一寸;中間的人一手彎曲著往前推,而另一只胳膊護在身后,杵著后面人的脖子,為自己擠出一點呼吸的余地;有的人嘴里還塞著早餐,一邊咀嚼一邊向人堆里蹭,以便尋找突破口;而身后還有許多人看著黑壓壓的人群望洋興嘆,對目前這趟車已經不抱太大希望。原本空空的車,瞬間已是人貼人,車里的每個人都變成了壓縮餅干,叫嚷聲亂成一片。車門處的人盡力抓住可能抓住的任何東西,以免一時大意被擠下車。

    北京公交公司聘請了三個壯漢作為安全員,他們唯一的工作便是努力將人杵進車中,然后把隨時會被擠爆的車門用力關上。

    百度的“唐家嶺吧”有一篇文章叫做《搬離唐家嶺,五點感受》,寫出了生活在那里的親身感受。

    1) 環境臟亂差,胡同里、街上垃圾隨意丟棄,還有一些土路,下雨更是泥濘難行;沒有像小公園、小廣場那樣休閑娛樂的公共場所,外邊沒有一個合適地方讓你坐下來休息一會;街上來來往往的人群,加上街頭小販擺攤及過往車輛,稍不注意就可能被車刮傷,逛一圈拖鞋就得刷洗一邊,因為鞋上沾滿了沙粒塵土。村南邊垃圾遍地,好像是垃圾場似的,村西的臭水溝味也很嗆,所以一般是不適宜外出轉轉的。

    2) 交通不方便,有好幾條線路,車發的也比較多,但是還是很不方便;人確實多,但是黑出租車、黑公共車更是“錦上添花”,有時故意堵一會給自己撈生意,加上街上小商小販擺攤擋道,車輛通行的速度慢如蝸牛,人流疏導不了,越來越多。上班時候,上車更像打仗一樣,還不一定能上去,夏天擠出一身臭汗,可是這已經算是幸運的了,還有更多人在等下一輛,下一輛還是人滿,還在等下一輛。記得返程回來時有個售票員說:同志們,下一站我們就解放了!詼諧中帶著一絲無奈。早高峰的時候有很多人無奈地選擇步行、自行車或電車、去地鐵車站或坐其他線路。公交刷IC卡4折,人們都不差錢,不差那點公交費,就是上不了車、刷不上卡。

    3) 大家都建樓房,一家比一家高,只為圖利益,地基有些是很不牢固的,因為很多是普通平房加蓋的地基,新蓋的有的達六七層,地基也是值得商榷的,很可能超過地基承重。還有一些防火的措施也是沒有的。安全隱患很大,望大家選擇時慎重一些。

    4) 野蠻式收水費加上暴力,而且針對外地人(本地人也用水呀),明顯的地方歧視主義。雖然收的錢不是很多,但是征收方式不合法,用在哪里不知情、不透明,做為消費者起碼知情權沒有,強買強賣違紀犯法。好多有異議的人被無情地暴打,人權是沒有的,法制社會在這片土壤壞掉了。疑問:這里人們都是刁民嗎?

    5) 房租價格節節攀高,帶衛生間與廚房的月租一般500-800,加上水電費、網費、暖氣費一般是700-1000元,比清河、上地等地的樓房一點也不便宜,那里樓房里客廳、廚房、衛生間比這里大,沒事時候出去轉轉環境也好。

    我轉貼這些內容,只是希望大家記住,我們的首都北京,并不只是中心商務區 CBD 那樣的高樓大廈、金碧輝煌、夜夜笙歌,在距離市中心一小時車程的范圍之內,還有像唐家嶺這樣的地方。

    許許多多的年輕人正在那里默默忍受。對于他們來說,擁擠嘈雜、塵土飛揚、遍地垃圾的唐家嶺,才是他們生活在其中、每天觸摸到的、實實在在的北京。

    俄國著名作家契訶夫在小說《醋栗》中,寫過一段有名的話,我把它摘錄出來,作為結束語。

    “幸福的人之所以感到幸福,只是因為不幸的人們在默默地背負著自己的重擔。一旦沒有了這種沉默,一些人的幸福便不可想象。這是普遍的麻木不仁。真應當在每一個心滿意足的幸福的人的門背后,站上一個人,拿著小錘子,經常敲門提醒他:世上還有不幸的人。”

    最后生成于 2018-7-9 07:41:59

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