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    朝鮮,一個牛仔褲的故事

    作者: 阮一峰

    日期: 2010年1月20日

    去年12月,一種NoKo牌牛仔褲在瑞典上市,售價高達1500瑞典克朗(約合217美元)。

    與眾不同的是,這種牛仔褲是朝鮮生產的。

    這在瑞典引起了轟動。你能想像嗎,一個與”資產階級腐朽文化“勢不兩立的國家,居然生產西方文化象征的牛仔褲!人們充滿了好奇,想知道這些牛仔褲是從哪里來的?為什么選擇在瑞典上市呢?它的背后又有怎樣的故事?

    上周的德國《明鏡》周刊獨家爆料,揭開了謎底。真是讓人大開眼界,這條牛仔褲背后故事的曲折復雜,就像超現實主義小說一樣,充滿了反諷,比好萊塢電影還要精彩。

    事情的起源,要追溯到2007年7月。當時,斯德哥爾摩一家廣告公司的三個青年職員,下班后聚在一起喝酒。他們都是大學剛畢業不久,想尋找一些好玩的事情。

    出于好奇,他們打開了朝鮮民主主義人民共和國的官方網頁 korea-dpr.com。在 Business 部分,他們看到網頁上寫著,朝鮮出口各種商品,包括化妝品、卡車、大理石、礦泉水、滅火器,還有--牛仔褲!一時興起,他們就按照網頁上的聯系方式,發出了一封電子郵件,聲稱自己是一家瑞典進出口公司的經理,對朝鮮產品有興趣,希望與該國合作等等。

    這原本只是一場惡作劇,第二天酒醒之后,三個年輕人就把這事忘了。但是沒有想到,他們很快收到了回信,一個自稱 Sapmak 的朝鮮人,用非常友好的語氣感謝他們對朝鮮產品的興趣,并且希望他們與朝鮮駐瑞典大使館聯系。

    這些年輕人就真的給朝鮮駐瑞典大使館打了一個電話。對方在電話里保證,將盡力滿足他們的一切要求,并且邀請他們到使館面談。這三個瑞典青年心想,到使館看看也很好玩,就欣然允諾。因為擔心自己看上去太年輕,不像進出口公司的經理,他們就請出了其中一人的家長扮演經理。那位家長的正式職業是牙醫,他穿上西裝,打好領帶,帶著三個”雇員“,就去拜訪朝鮮駐瑞典大使。在拜訪中,他們還隨身攜帶了兩條牛仔褲(其中一條還是穿過的),作為交給朝鮮方面的樣品。一切看上去非常可信。

    2008年初,朝鮮向他們發出了正式邀請,希望他們到平壤的服裝廠考察簽約。三個年輕人提出,想參觀朝鮮的計算機中心,以及與普通的朝鮮青年見面,并觀看大型團體操表演”阿里郎“。但是,朝鮮方面開出了一份不一樣的訪問日程,包括參觀存放金日成遺體的錦銹山紀念宮、萬壽臺金日成塑像、存放各國領導人贈送給朝鮮禮品的國際友誼展覽館等等。

    2008年7月27日,這三個瑞典青年從北京乘坐火車,抵達了平壤。車站上有專人迎接,并且還有一個專門派來為他們開車的司機。他們被帶到了著名的高麗飯店(Koryo Hotel),賓主一起在酒吧里唱卡拉OK聯歡。朝鮮陪同總是在唱慷慨激昂的軍歌,而他們則是唱甲殼蟲樂隊的老歌,兩種歌曲輪流響起,最后以雙方一起合唱”平壤之夜“而結束。為了紀念這個夜晚,后來上市的牛仔褲的兩個型號,就被分別定名為 Kara 型和 Oke 型。

    接下來的10天,他們參觀了一些朝鮮的服裝廠,但是合作的事情遲遲沒有進展。在這個過程中,他們還去參觀了平壤動物園,那里的動物不多,就連鱷魚看上去都很孤獨。

    在離開前的最后一天,他們終于見到了負責采礦和紡織部門的一位高級官員,雙方握手、合影、干杯之后,協議就算達成了。最后的決定是生產黑色牛仔褲,因為藍色牛仔褲是美國文化的象征,朝鮮不愿意生產。

    又過了一年,牛仔褲終于生產出來了。其中又經過了許多曲折,比如朝鮮的女制衣工人,不熟悉牛仔褲的生產工藝,不得不專門培訓縫紉技法,再比如,朝鮮缺乏制作牛仔褲所需的金屬紐扣,不得不進口,但是貨物在經過巴基斯坦的時候遺失了,費了九牛二虎之力才找回來。這些都不必細說了,總之,”朝鮮制造“的牛仔褲終于問世了。

    2009年11月11日,第一批1100條牛仔褲運抵斯德哥爾摩。一家百貨公司被他們說服,同意從12月4日開始銷售。但是瑞典媒體議論紛紛,討論是否應該與朝鮮發展經貿關系,尤其是考慮到朝鮮半年前剛剛進行過核武器試驗。牛仔褲只上架了半天,百貨公司就不堪壓力,決定退回這批貨物,理由是不愿意卷入政治。

    在爭議面前,三個瑞典青年發表了一份措辭謹慎的聲明,表示沒有想到會事情變得這么復雜,他們的最初動機只是好玩而已。

    現在,這些牛仔褲不再在商店中銷售了,而是索性作為展品,在新成立的 NoKo 牛仔褲博物館展覽,徹底從一種商品變成了行為藝術。

    這個博物館的網址是 nokojeans.com,地址在斯德哥爾摩 Vartoftagatan 47號,靠近 Medborgarplatsen 地鐵車站。經過的朋友可以去看看。

    至此,整個事件看上去就像一出一本正經惡搞的荒誕派戲劇,混雜著黑客文化、嬉皮士精神、搖滾、商業操作、共產主義意識形態等各種元素。在這條牛仔褲上面,你可以演繹出無數的象征意義。聯想到海盜灣、宜家家具也都是瑞典人做出來的,不由讓人感嘆,這個國家的人的創造力怎么會這么豐富,玩得怎么會這么精彩,真是佩服啊!

    最后生成于 2018-7-9 07:41:59

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